The Secret Charms of Ramla

Mosques, churches and subterranean rowboats!  (Also the biggest radishes ever.)

Ramla is not a destination that jumps immediately to mind when planning a trip to Israel. In fact, a number of Israelis were puzzled when they heard we had gone there. It is however a very interesting place, and not without some eccentricities of its own. (It is in Israel after all).

We went on a field trip offered by Mike’s program at the university, so there was also an educational component to the visit.

Ramla was originally founded by one of the early Moslem Caliphs in 716 CE as the administrative capital of Palestine. It was strategically located at the intersection of the north-south road from Egypt to Syria,  and the road connecting Jerusalem with Jaffa. We were interested to learn that it was the first and only city in Israel founded by Moslems; all other cases they built on top of existing cities. Although most of what was built in the earliest years is no longer visible, there are remnants of the ancient town that are very interesting. Like Tel Aviv, it was built on sand dunes, hence its name, Ramla, which is the Arabic word for sand.

I’ll start with the part of town that has survived, virtually from its inception. The Pool of the Arches, built in 789 CE, served as an underground water reservoir for the city. It was fed by a sophisticated aqueduct, and possibly a spring below. It is  impressively large, with approximately  5000 square feet of underground lake, and it is covered with a roof supported by graceful  stone arches, like an underground cathedral.  It is a stunning piece of architecture that has survived both turmoil and earthquakes for over 1200 years. Seeing it today is not without its comic element, as the city has decided to allow people to row boats within it, to add to its appeal as a tourist attraction. Since the arches make the space too awkward for fixed oars, manoeuvering the boats requires a combination of canoeing and gondola skills, neither of which the average visitor possesses, as you can see.

Okay, how do we get out of here.

We also had a tour of the Great Mosque, which is still in use today.  It is large, open, beautiful, and…Gothic? Yes, it was originally built by the Crusaders, who took the town in 1096, and it is the best preserved example of a Crusader cathedral still in existence in Israel…even though it is now a mosque! Around 1268 when the Mamluks were in control, the steeple was re-built as a minaret, the pews were moved out…and voila!  But otherwise it is still very church-like.

The Crusaders would not be amused.

The Mamluks also built the White Tower,  a marvel of its time.  It was a minaret and, given its size, likely also a look-out tower,  forming part of a very large mosque complex that did not survive. The tower did endure however; it stands 90 feet high, and you can climb up 111 ancient steps to the very top which has a commanding view of…well… not that much.

A combination fortress/minaret

We  visited a large Franciscan church/monastery complex dating back to the 14th century, passing on our way a Greek orthodox church, even older.   In 1799, Napoleon was staying in the Franciscan hospice, and it is told that he was apparently so enraged at being woken up by the muezzin, (a mosque was in close proximity), that he got out of bed and shot him!

As we quickly learned, the town is very diverse by Israeli standards, including a mix of Arabs, both Muslim and Christian, and a large Jewish population.

In fact, even the Jewish population is also more diverse than usual, as it also includes the Karaite World Centre. This is a very small strand of Judaism that does not recognize the authority of Rabbinical Judaism,  or the Talmud, and that therefore does not follow the religious practices developed in the diaspora, which they consider to be man-made. They practise Judaism based on the plain text of what is written in the Torah/Tanach. So, just by way of example,  they would follow the commandment not to boil a kid in its mother’s milk as written in the Torah, but not the elaborate meat/dairy kosher laws that were later derived by the rabbis from that simple injunction.  For them, Jewish descent is patrilineal, as it is in the Bible;  and by the same token,  their new year starts in the spring, aligning it with  the first month in the Torah, (and with Passover);  and not in the 7th month, when our Rosh Hashana takes place… all very interesting, and new to me! (Although I have often wondered how it came to be that our New Year takes place in the 7th month.)

Another highlight of our tour was a visit to one of the loveliest open air markets I have seen in Israel, where in addition to the usual fine produce, including the biggest radishes I have ever seen, you can also buy anything else you might need, like say a fridge…or an evening gown.

Tennis ball sized radishes

 

Our final stop was for lunch in the old city, in a 700 year old building, where Samir’s restaurant now provides  an elaborate and lengthy meal of many courses, somewhat reminiscent of an Italian wedding in that it is designed to have you gain five pounds in one sitting. It was of course delicious!

Every bit as old as it looks

Tel Aviv’s First Art Museum or…

( Dizengoff Rescued!)

I came across this little known story as a result of our visit to the Rubin museum. We were so fascinated by Rubin’s life story that I tracked down his (now out of print) autobiography in a local vintage book store.  This book, which is every bit as interesting as I thought it would be, includes an inside look at the lighter side of the founding of Tel Aviv’s first art museum.

Born in 1861, Meir Dizengoff, the driving force of this story, came to Israel from Russia where he had been trained as an engineer.  He was by all accounts a warm-hearted, ebullient and “get it done” kind of guy, who was prepared to move heaven and earth (and often did) to put his brand new city on the map. He and his wife were one of the 60 founding families who drew lots in 1908 to determine where each of them would build.  At the time, the city was just sand dunes as you can see below! He got # 16 Rothschild Blvd, and went on to become the city’s first mayor in 1921 when the city was formally recognized.

It is hard to imagine that Tel Aviv looked like this only 110 years ago

Rubin’s background is even more unusual.  Born in 1893 to an extremely poor Hassidic family in Galatz, Rumania, he was the 8th or 9th of 13 or 14 children. (He claims his mother was never quite sure!)  From an early age he was gifted at drawing, not exactly an esteemed skill in his community, where education was limited and prospects few. However, in a series of events that almost defy belief, he made his way to Israel in 1911 as a teenager, lived for a time in a tent on the dunes in Tel Aviv, went on to Paris and New York, survived the first world war in Rumania, came back to Tel Aviv, and in the process became an artist of some renown.

In 1932, when Rubin was living in Tel Aviv, Dizengoff  approached him with an idea. Since Tel Aviv now had schools, a hospital, a fire brigade, police, and even a prison (!), it was clearly time to have an “Art Museum”. His plan was that Rubin, who was by this time a reputable artist, would arrange the whole thing. Rubin thought it was a pretty improbable idea for Dizengoff to be focused on something like a museum so early in the city’s development, and he raised a number of practical objections to the concept. But no objection that Rubin came up with was enough to dissuade Dizengoff. (And this is one of the things I love about him!)

For example; where to put the museum?  No problem.  Dizengoff would donate his house!  Well then where would he live?  Dizengoff thought he could easily manage to live in a couple of rooms in the museum.  No, Rubin did not approve of that idea.  You cannot have someone eating and sleeping in a proper art museum.  Well then, after a little thought, Dizengoff had a solution for this too. He would build a small apartment for himself on the roof…and sure enough he did just that.

And what about art for the museum?  Well that was easy. They would put Rubin’s work on display to start with, and then Dizengoff would go to Europe to solicit donations of both money and artworks.  This really had Rubin concerned, because for all Dizengoff’s undoubted abilities, he knew truly nothing about art. However, Rubin had too much respect for the mayor to really argue the point. (Not to mention that he now knew he would be wasting his breath.)

In a matter of only months, the apartment was built on the roof, (times were clearly different then), and the museum opened with Rubin’s works on display. Tel Avivians were enthusiastic about this new addition to their fledgling city, a foundation was established, and money was raised for future development.

And off went Dizengoff to Europe to solicit support for the new venture.  By now, you will not be surprised to learn that he did indeed raise more money and also acquired some important art for the museum.  When he got back he told Rubin that, among other things, he had acquired two wonderful pieces of sculpture, perfect for a Jewish art museum: Michelangelo’s Moses, and Donatello’s David!   In his enthusiasm, he’d had his heart set on buying the originals, but of course had discovered that they were, most emphatically, not for sale. Not to be deterred, he kept trying and  was ultimately sold on a couple of bronze replicas, of the kind that you could pick up anywhere in Rome. Rubin had to break it to him that, sadly, these were not the sorts of things that could go into a museum, so in the end Dizengoff put them on his roof terrace, above the museum.

One night, the local police looked up, and in the moonlight they were convinced that they were seeing two thieves, or possibly murderers (!), crouching on the terrace, no doubt trying to break into the mayor’s apartment. One of them rushed upstairs and gave Moses a mighty whack on the head, breaking off his horns.  This clatter woke up Dizengoff who came out on to his terrace in his housecoat, to find his Moses in rough shape. He looked in astonishment at the policeman who sheepishly explained that he had mistaken the statue for a murderer.  But damaged or not, Dizengoff loved those statues, and both Moses and David remained on the terrace until the mayor passed away a few years later.

In 1948, it was there, at 16 Rothschild Blvd., that Israel formally declared independence. The museum remained at that site until 1971 when the modern new Tel Aviv art museum opened on King Saul Blvd.  The old museum is now known as Independence Hall. And considering his love of statues, it is only fitting that in front of the Hall is a statue of Dizengoff himself, on his horse.

 

Levinsky Market Revisited or…

Beware the Halvah Witch!

The first time I went to the Levinsky market, I was doing a walk through Florentine, currently the most “up and coming” area in Tel Aviv. The Shuk Levinsky is located in the eastern end of the neighbourhood on, unsurprisingly, Levinsky street.  It is not a covered pedestrian market like Carmel, rather it is a few blocks, intensely crammed with small stores selling all kinds of spices, olives, coffees, dried fruits, nuts and other delicious things. Yes, and halvah. I’ll get to that.

A typical array of dried fruits and nuts

The area was first settled by Greek Jews, followed by immigrants from Iraq. Persia, and the Balkans, so the original focus was on selling ingredients for those cuisines. Today you can get pretty much any spice/ingredient you might need, if you can read Hebrew and decipher what is what.

The first time I strolled through, I could not even begin to choose from among the bewildering array of stores, many of which seemed to sell the same things. Who was who, and which should I choose?

This time, I went with Gili, one of my delightful Hebrew teachers, who promised we would go to all the best places.

We started with the only place I actually did know, and  which I have mentioned in an earlier post; 41 Levinsky, the kiosk that specializes in traditional Tel Aviv “gazoz”, sparkling water enlivened with all-organic fresh fruits, syrups, fresh herbs. Each one, custom made, almost too pretty to drink, and delicious. Even Gili was impressed.

The charming Anouk, (originally from Montreal), who makes a wonderful “gazoz”. It’s like drinking a bouquet of flowers.

Then to a little deli, fronted by a wide selection of olives, but actually specializing in such un-Israeli specialties as corned beef (!) and other cured meats.  (The Balkan influence at work.) Of course I had to buy something. It’s what I do. According to Mike, the corned beef was excellent. So were the olives.

It is amazing  how much can be fit into these little stores. Behind the olives you find a carefully chosen selection of cheeses and cured meats, and on the left side, out of view, even some wine!

From there, we went to get white coffee  ( ground coffee from beans that have only been very lightly roasted).  I had never even heard of this before, but Gili’s husband, upon hearing she would be in Shuk Levinsky, told her not to even think about coming home without it!  I went back to get some…just to try it. On balance I’d have to say that it is an acquired taste.  (And I have not acquired it.)

White coffee…who knew?

Then to the halvah store!  A clean, open, inviting store entirely devoted to halvah in every conceivable flavour…at least 20 different kinds. A little old lady stood, unsmiling, behind the counter in a little knitted cap. I asked for a small slice each of chocolate and vanilla.  Her knife hovered over the large loaf-like chocolate slab of halvah…”less”, I said, and her knife edged along …”no even less”,… the knife hovered, not moving much,…”please less”.  She gave me a look, and carved off exactly the big slice she wanted to cut the first time. And it was BIG.  The same process was repeated for the vanilla.  When we walked out of the store, I was the somewhat abashed owner of a kilo and a quarter of halvah! To put that in context, that is almost three pounds…or more to the point, around 6,000 (!) calories of trouble. (Yikes.)

oh halvah, so much halvah

What to do?  The polite Canadian in me of course paid up and left the store, scheming all the while as to how to save what is left of my waistline.  It did not take me long to decide that surely all those gorgeous (and slim!) young teachers at the Ulpan could help me out. And I was not disappointed. They rose magnificently to the occasion…and a good quarter of it vanished in a satisfactorily short time. They pronounced it a very high quality halvah, very delicious. It was a relief to know that it met their high standards.

This, by the way, is not the first time I have been snookered into buying more of something than I want, or something that I do not really need. You may remember the “boots incident”.  But usually I am charmed into the purchase, so I don’t really mind. This time there was no charm involved at all. Just steely-eyed determination.

Would you want to argue with her?

So how much halvah can one person (or even two) eat?  Not that much!  We surrendered on the weekend, and on Monday I personally delivered the rest to the Ulpan, where I am hopeful that I will never see it again.

This sign was in another store I went to previously on Allenby.  I thought it was a charming sentiment. That was before I bought three pounds of halvah.

 

Tel Aviv Does Purim

Now THIS is a Purim party!

If Tel Aviv were a country, Purim would be its national holiday. This exuberant fling with hedonism has been its defining holiday since the founding of the city, when Dizengoff used to lead the annual Purim parade on his horse. It is fitting in a way, since Tel Aviv is the most secular of Israeli cities, and Purim is the most secular of the Jewish festivals. (God does not even get a mention in the story of Esther.)

We had heard a lot about how enthusiastically Tel Aviv embraces Purim, and we were not disappointed.  But oddly, on the day of Purim itself, there was not much happening apart from the odd costumed person on the street, like two guys in full-on Louis the 14th garb , and a little party at our school… oh… and a lion, (or dog, if you want to get picky about it).

I had to look twice. When they said everyone gets involved, they were not kidding

There are kids’ parties all week, but for adults things get going at night on Thursday and into Friday when the streets were hopping all day.  Although many of the really over the top parties happen at night,  there is a massive open air celebration at Kikar Medina on Friday which attracts something in the order of a hundred thousand people.   Kikar Medina is a giant circular park which is lined with designer stores that no-one ever seems to go to.  It is normally as dead as a doornail,  but on Purim it is jammed.  The party starts at noon and features performances from top musicians, lots of dancing and general frivolity!    We could hear it going strong from our apartment which is about a 15 minute walk from the festivities.

So of course, we went over to have a look, but before doing that we had to outfit ourselves appropriately, which we did, all things considered.

we do our best to fit in

I also invested in a special Purim purse which I am quite fond of.

Okay…how cute is this. And when else could I ever wear it!

So what did we see.  Oh boy.  Lots of people in all kinds of fancy get-ups. Families, bands of friends, even some senior citizens getting into the act, lots of food stands, and a big stage for the musicians with giant speakers to match. There was a massive security presence as you might imagine.

Some of our individual picks: not an easy task in the throngs of people milling about.

Trump does Purim

 

Trudeau does Purim

 

Okay, no more politics. Just some folks having fun…lots of them.

Could we take them home?

 

the aforementioned senior citizens cutting a rug

 

And a pirate ship?

Purim is like Hallowe’en, Carnival and a giant street party all rolled into one. Inhibitions are frowned upon; costumes  are required, (the more fanciful the better), and drinking is mandatory.

Did I mention that I really like this place?

On the way home we ran into this charming group of minions.

Mike has always had a weakness for minions

 

Chag Purim Sameach!