The inspiration for this post actually occurred when we were here last February, staying in a super basic Airbnb, overlooking a multi-level parking garage on a modest little street called Luria. This was our home base while we searched for a long-term apartment and wrestled with the Interior Ministry over our visas.
I was sitting in the living room when I could have sworn I heard the “clop clop” of horse hooves going down the street. I immediately dismissed this as being impossible in the heart of the city. But I was wrong. Not two days later we saw an old horse, pulling a workaday cart, turning down Luria as we came home. I was not quick enough to get a photo and I never saw him again. But it did bring to mind Dr. Suess’s Mulberry Street.
And that got me to thinking that there is no need to invent the interesting things that can be found when walking the streets of Tel Aviv.
For example, normally in Magen David square, just outside the Carmel market, you will find big crowds surrounding karaoke singers or speakers fervently denouncing some recent outrage. When I last walked by however, the market was still closed due to virus restrictions, and the square was virtually empty but for a lovely young woman — belly dancing to exotic music. With hardly a soul around to watch her, I think she kept going just for the joy of it.
And in the “you can’t make this stuff up” category, I give you the aptly named Crazy House, a condo building overlooking Independence park and the sea. The first picture is taken from the front, and the second from the back of the building.
The building was designed by Leon Gaignebet in the 1980s, and was considered to be inspired by Gaudi, about whom I confess I knew very little. But when I googled his buildings in Barcelona I could certainly see how that idea arose, even though Gaignebet categorically denied any connection. Apparently the inside is also very unusual, however since people actually live there, it is not possible to see it.
The fanciful design is meant to unite the Mediterranean and the desert. The white curvy trim that faces front and west evokes the waves of the sea. The back side, which faces east and inland reflects the colours and landscape of the desert. This is the only building of its kind that Gaignebet designed. After enduring a 7 year battle to wrest a building permit from the city, he went back to less controversial work.
And this brings me back to the horse and cart on Luria Street. It turns out that this was a traditional sight in Tel Aviv’s history, as “alte zachen” pedlars plied their trade, picking up scrap metal or second hand items, in carts drawn by horses or donkeys. Even when Arab Israelis took over the trade, they kept the old Yiddish terminology, calling for “alte zachen” (old things) as they drove the streets, taking their wares to Jaffa for sale. The practice was only banned in 2009 (ineffectively) and again in 2014, out of concern for the well-being of the animals. The second ban was much more rigorous, although evidently not 100%.
So, a quaint piece of history that I chanced to meet — and to think that I saw it on Luria street.
(With thanks to Dr. Suess, whose name in Hebrew actually means “horse”— how is that for a coincidence?)
Hey Lili – I enjoyed the horse and wagon piece – esp with the fridge in the back! I am old enough to remember the horse and wagon milk truck on Bristol Avenue east of Dufferin and Davenport. At the bottom of the street was a dairy and delivery of milk, butter, cream and eggswas by horse and wagon and you left the payment “under the mat”.
Rose growers were happy for the free “manure” and it was a decent paying job.
Once Becker’s stores came on the scene in the late 50’s discounting milk in 3 quart bottles and women began to drive and car drivers became impatient with the carriages – it was the end for the horse drawn wagon. As well the clinking of bottles annoyed those sleeping in the wee hours.
We thing of door to door deliveries as a new thing today – but it was so in my childhood on Bristol Avenue. There is a very good coffee place now at the top of myold street. Very hip called The Sovereign. Highly recommended for a great double espresso cortado. I stop there sometimes on my way to Orillia for compnay on the drive. Couldn’t do that in a horse drawn cart. It would take 5 days…..
Keep the tales coming.
Best,
Linda
Happy Chanukah, Lili! I am really enjoying the reminder in your posts of what a rich and fascinating visual environment is found in Israel. We are increasingly in shutdown again in the Bay Area, but still enjoying a mild winter outdoors, which is a big help. And we adopted a new dog last week! He’s a 5-year-old smooth fox terrier who loves to cuddle. He was a stray who ended up in a shelter, and it was our good luck to find him there. His new Hebrew name is “Yoffi.” We think he’s just great and a delightful companion for these very challenging times.
Hi Shelley
Happy Chanukah to you as well. How nice to have a new companion in life. Yoffi indeed on so many levels.
I think our winter here I’m Tel Aviv sounds a bit like yours. Lots of sunshine which is cheering in and of itself. And as you say, so much to see. Really, it is everywhere but I am more open to noticing it here for some reason.
Because of our fairly recent experience in Barcelona, I immediately thought the architecture resembled Gaudi, though I was hard pressed to recall his name. Deciding to google it later, I pressed on with your unbelievable sights. Wonders! I am glad to hear that you knew little about Gaudi, because we didn’t either, though everyone else professed to. One of his buildings is featured in “Origin”, a recent novel by Dan Brown.
Thanks Janice. You make me feel a lot better about my Gaudi ignorance. 😊 it really is a remarkable building also the more so because it is a multi-unit residence. Not a church or institution. I would love to see it from the inside!
This is great! I actually really like the back of the building – makes you look.
It does. But sadly almost no one ever sees the back. That part is on a much more obscure street.
…and all this time I thought Seuss was a fictitious name inspired by the French word for “pacifier”; when it was his real name, meaning “horse”. A drash of Talmudic proportions!
Well it was fictitious. But a good fiction. And it does mean Horse. Who knew?
L-Thanks so much for sharing your adventures and insights.